Varun Bahl, Ranbir Kapoor and Suneet Varma present creations by Indian designer Kunal Rawal.

When it come to design sensibilities designers Gaurav Gupta and Varun Bahl are poles apart, but on day three of the FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week their couture presentations made the Capital proud; couture was presented in two very unique and fabulous ways. After successfully showcasing at Paris Haute Couture Week in July, Gaurav Gupta showcased his Couture’23 collection Hiranyagarbha in partnership with DLF Emporio at the offsite location. 

Gupta known for his sculptural prowess and design which scales architectural heights, was inspired for this collection by the Cosmos in Vedic philosophy. The interpretations of the five elements: Panchamahabhutas — earth (Prithvi), water (jal), fire (Agni), air (vayu), and space (Akasha) from the universal womb on statement silhouettes and designs made his collection contemporary and fashionable and en vogue.  The designer has made successful inroads on the international platform with the likes of pop sensation Cardi B choosing his ensembles for red carpet occasions. Aishwariya Rai has worn the designer at Cannes recently.  This edit of the couture, the designer has expanded the Hiranyagarbha story to include reception cocktail lehengas, gowns, saris, and modern hybrid silhouettes with the synergies of comfortable, confident, easy couture. Janhvi Kapoor walked the runway in a showstopper silhouette in an electric blue lehenga adorned with 3000 hand-embroidered bugle beads, which took 457 man hours to make.

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True to his signature style Varun Bahl’s artisanal embroideries with beautiful 3D flowers were urbane and chic. Youthful and playful silhouettes brought a fresh and contemporary feel to his designs in vivid hues.  Bahl who is a favourite among Delhi’s fashionable set, has also become the go-to designer for millennials and Gen Z who look for styles which are both free-spirited, boho-chic with haute couture craftsmanship. His bridal couture pieces cater to the contemporary and modern bride, who looks for something dreamy and yet has an experimental and edgy vibe. The designer has retained his strong emphasis on fine handwork and craftsmanship which has resulted in dramatic yet functional ensembles perfect for the modern bride. Actor Bhumi Padnekar closed the show for the designer dressed in a gold ensemble featuring floral gold motifs and thigh high slit.

  Ritu Kumar. 

Mumbai-based designers Falguni Shane Peacock opened India Couture Week with a presentation of dazzling bridal couture. Not only did they show present heavily embellished ensembles perfect for the upcoming wedding season, but also featured newly wed Kiara Advani as their show stopper, to drive home the message.  The collection titled “Renaissance Reverie” is a reflection the designer duo’s love for art and the treasures, encountered during their travels. Drawing inspiration from the renaissance era, the silhouettes were grand and rich with intricate embroidery. The ensembles showcased the techniques and and meticulous workmanship of India’s skilled artisans, who have brought the designer duo’s vision to life by marrying Western ethos with the richness of Indian heritage. An off shoulder gown featuring feathers Bollywood beauty Kiara walked the runway in a hot pink lehenga with sequin details, looking every bit the belle off the ball.

A Renaissance inspired ensemble features an Indian veil

Falguni and Shane Peacock are well known in the Indian and Global fashion platform having created red carpet ensembles for leading movie and music icons like Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Katy Perry, and Lady Gaga. The duo are celebrated for their statement fashion creations.

Meanhwile, the grande dame of Indian fashion, Ritu Kumar, showcased her collection on Day two of FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week in association with Reliance Brands. The lexicon of the Ritu Kumar design aesthetic is so entrenched in Indian fashion, that it has become ubiquitous and synonymous with Indian Couture.

The OG of Indian design and the first revivalist of Indian craftsmanship and textiles, received a standing ovation for her collection which featured India’s rich textile tradition woven into modern silhouettes replete with intricate embroidery.

An amalgamation of vintage patina, burnished hues, metallic tones, a balance of motifs like paisleys, boots and flowers, were tastefully added to lehengas, dhoti pants teamed with jackets, saris, embroidery corsets under Maharaja coats stood testament to Kumar’s heritage and fashion repertoire. The country owes much of its design ethos to the revival work done by the first ‘barefoot doctor’ of Indian fashion.

Bollywood beauty Adi Rao Hydari walked the runway as showstopper for the designer dressed in an ivory chikankari lehenga worn with a short jacket. The collection encapsulates a new feminine aesthetic through heritage textiles and nuanced classicism on dresses, jackets, capes, and anarkalis. The complexity of the glittering kasab and floral kashidakari are laid out with couture tailoring which makes the collection timeless and familiar while paving the way for what’s to come.  This season, Kumar’s legacy stays intact while the mood mirrors the style of today’s India. Its no surprise that Suneet Varma is a bridal favourite, and his latest collection at FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week in association with Reliance Brands very much plays to his strength.   Feminine, flirtatious, sexy and everything you’d want to be during the run up to your wedding, was on his runway. “Mogra” draws inspiration from the incredible traditional motifs and embroideries found in the decorative arts of India. Varma revisits the traditional techniques and crafts that have made Indian embroideries a worldwide celebration, while infusing a modern and fresh twist. Varma’s sari blouses and cholis have always made headlines for their daring necklines, styles and burlesque silhouettes. Team them with his sequin saris or elegant lehengas and you have a winning fashion moment.

Indo-Asian News Service