What you are getting wrong about high protein products

As part of my research for this piece, I went into the supermarket to count the number of products with “high protein” on their packaging — a few aisles in, I realised the scale of the task ahead of me. I wasn’t looking for wholefoods naturally high in protein, but rather foods that have been engineered to have a higher protein total.

By the end, I’d accrued an extensive list including crisps, cereal, cheese, chocolate bars, yoghurt, noodles, bread, ready meals, milkshakes, pasta and pizza — a food that, while not a bastion of health, is pretty high in protein anyway. Branding is designed to encourage purchases, and the healthy connotations associated with the phrase “high protein” serve as additional motivation to part with your cash.

Protein helps build and repair bodily tissues such as muscle, while also supporting other important processes such as hormone regulation and immune function. These benefits have been well-publicised in recent years, and as a result, many people want more of it.

But are these high-protein products really necessary?

Are high-protein products good for you? There are two main arguments against products engineered to contain more protein. One: the increased protein content comes alongside unwanted sugar, salt, saturated fat and additives. And two: most people are already consuming enough protein. This first point was the subject of a recent Channel 4 documentary, Joe Wicks: Licensed to Kill, which highlighted most protein bars’ status as an ultra-processed food — a categorisation identifiable by their largely unrecognisable ingredient lists. Off the back of this, Joe Wicks and featured expert Professor Chris van Tulleken called for mandatory warning labels on harmful food based on existing government guidance.

Professor van Tulleken is a professor of global health and infection at University College London, and the author of Ultra-Processed People. He believes that ultra-processed products’ elevated protein offering is usually accompanied by high levels of sugar, saturated fat, salt and sweeteners, as well as other unwanted ingredients such as emulsifiers. These products also often lack the fibre and nutritional goodness of wholefood equivalents.

So, what are his high-protein wholefood alternatives? “A post-gym bowl of chicken soup and a glass of milk, or some hummus and pitta bread”, he says. If we are getting enough protein in our diets, and it is in plentiful supply in wholefoods, what is driving food manufacturers to dial up protein on everything from snack bars to health drinks? Nichola Ludlam-Raine, a specialist registered dietitian and author of How Not to Eat Ultra-Processed, describes the phenomenon above as a “health halo”.

“A health halo is where manufacturers draw your attention to one aspect of a product (in this case, its protein content) while completely distracting you from all other parts — for example, I once saw a packet of marshmallows that were high in sugar, but said ‘fat-free’ on the packet,” she explains. “If a product is high in fat, salt and sugar, then a little bit of extra protein is not going to make it ‘good’ for you.”

However, despite their recent exposure, Ludlam-Raine does believe some high-protein products can have a place in a healthy diet. “There are functional products that are genuinely high in protein — about 20g per serving — and convenient for people who are on the go,” she says.

“If someone has just done a workout, that is likely to be a better option than a chocolate bar or a packet of crisps, because protein does help with muscle repair. “It’s not a substitute for wholefoods like chicken, eggs or tofu, which are giving you other nutrients too – my patients eat predominantly wholefood diets. But there is a gap where these products can be useful for people who struggle to meet their daily protein needs.”

Do you need more protein? Now to address the second key argument against high-protein products: Many people are already eating enough protein. “The recommended nutrient intake for protein in the UK is 0.75 grams per kilogramme of body weight,” says Professor Javier Gonzalez, a professor of nutrition and metabolism at the University of Bath’s Centre for Nutrition, Exercise and Metabolism.