Chanel couture gets a breath of fresh air — and a star-studded audience

Fashion powerhouse Chanel stacked the Paris front row like a movie premiere on Tuesday: Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa, Penélope Cruz, A$AP Rocky, Gracie Abrams, Margaret Qualley. Then, it handed the spotlight to its new designer, Matthieu Blazy, for his much-anticipated couture debut built on one big, confident swing: joy. Inside the Grand Palais, the house went full fantasy. The set was a dream-garden of candy-coloured trees and giant pink-and-red mushrooms: a surreal antidote to the gray January day outside, and to the even heavier mood of the world beyond the doors.

Before the first look, Blazy even teased the mood with an animation film of woodland animals at work in the Chanel ateliers, “Cinderella” style: a wink that said this would be couture, but not grim. Then came the clothes, and the message landed fast: lightness. Blazy took Chanel’s most famous codes — the suit, the pearls, the chain-weighted hems — and made them feel almost weightless.

A classic skirt suit arrived as a sheer, barely-there version of itself, cut so delicately it looked like air had been tailored.

Models wear creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 Haute Couture collection presented in Paris, on Tuesday.

In a house where tweed can be armour, this was tweed as whisper. Birds hovered over the collection as a guiding idea: freedom, motion, travel. Featherlike textures and flighty embroideries fluttered across silhouettes that moved like breath instead of structure.

There were flashes of plumage in colour and surface — at times bright, at times raven-dark — and plenty of soft, floating chiffon that made the models look as if they were gliding rather than walking. The best trick was how the craft wasn’t obvious. Up close, the work was meticulous: a level of handwork couture clients pay for, and ateliers live for.

But the overall effect stayed easy, almost casual; as if the clothes were beautiful without demanding applause.

Models wear creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 Haute Couture collection presented in Paris, on Tuesday. Photos: Agencies

Blazy played with the artistic technique trompe l’oeil, including a tank top-and-jeans idea reimagined in organza, and with textures that were romantic but also a little strange; couture that winked. In a brand built on total looks and strong house signatures, Blazy offered something personal: choice.

Models were invited to pick symbols and messages to stitch into the clothes — a love note, a sign, a private mark.

The show also had a sense of casting as storytelling. Blazy’s runways have tended to carry an open, joyful energy, and that continued here — a mix of ages, backgrounds and presences that made the clothes feel lived-in. Model Bhavitha Mandava, fresh off her viral moment at the house’s Métiers d’Art show, returned. ccLater she closed as a couture bride, shimmering and feathered, smiling as if she knew she was ending the scene exactly on the right note. By the finale, the room was playing along. Big sets are easy. Blazy’s debut didn’t try to overpower Chanel with noise or force a new era with aggression. Instead, he made it feel alive.

Associated Press