Ayissi fuses African tradition with Parisian craft at fall couture show
- Last updated: July 9, 2025 | 11:13
Beneath an opulent chandelier in a sunlit salon, Imane Ayissi’s fall couture show once again fused African tradition with Parisian craft. Monday’s running motif was the flower, explored in bold, distinct ways. In one of the most striking looks, the model’s entire upper body was transformed into a sculpture of giant vermillion flowers — petals constructed to fly outward and create a vivid silhouette. Another satin dress placed a flower appliqué playfully at the hip, as if growing from the fabric itself.
Elsewhere, a tailored pink jacket was punctuated by crisp white floral embellishments, merging softness with geometry. Ayissi played with contrasts throughout: sharply structured jackets alongside softer, draped pieces, and traditional African textiles interpreted with couture techniques.
Handwork and tactile details gave the collection both presence and lightness. If there was sometimes tension between architectural lines and exuberant decoration, Ayissi’s best looks felt fresh and intentional — pushing the conversation between heritage and high fashion forward. Once again, he made a compelling case for the place of African craft in the heart of Paris couture.
Meanwhile, a celeb-heavy show by Schiaparelli kicked off Paris Haute Couture Week on Monday, the first of four packed days that will see Georgian showman Demna bow out from Balenciaga after 10 years at the brand. Schiaparelli designer Daniel Roseberry, hot on the heels of providing one of Lauren Sanchez’s outfits for her blockbuster Venice wedding to Jeff Bezos last month, drew a roster of A-listers. Rapper Cardi B turned up in a traffic-stopping tasselled neckpiece and posed with a black crow perched on her hand in the drizzle outside the Petit Palais exhibition space, where Roseberry’s collection, entitled “Back to the Future”, was unveiled.
The front row also included singer Dua Lipa, who wore a full-length petalled white bridal outfit, as well as US trans actress Hunter Schafer, known for HBO hit show “Euphoria”. Haute Couture Week is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations bought by celebrities and VIPs for red carpets, galas and other high-profile events. Schiaparelli was followed by a show by Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, who said her creations were inspired by the ocean and British documentary maker David Attenborough’s heart-rending new film on sea life.
Known for fusing technology and fashion, van Herpen presented body-hugging dresses evoking fish scales or seaweed, the flowing tails and fins of tropical fish, and the curling forms of seahorse tails. Tuesday saw Chanel present the final collection created by its in-house design studio, the fifth since former chief creative Virginie Viard’s sudden departure in June 2024. Her successor, the discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy, was appointed in December and will showcase his first collection for Chanel in October. One of the highlights of Haute Couture week will be the swansong of Demna, who goes by one name and is known for his daring work as well as controversies during his decade-long stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga.
Agencies