Crowds flock to Istanbul’s ‘Museum of Innocence’ before TV adaptation
- Last updated: February 14, 2026 | 10:12 ..
On a cobbled street in Cukurcuma, a district on Istanbul’s European side known for its antiques shops, the story penned by Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk in his bestselling novel “The Museum of Innocence” has been brought to life. Inside a red-painted house, visitors are confronted by a wall of 4,213 cigarette butts, many of them lipstick-stained, others angrily stubbed out, all obsessively kept by the book’s protagonist, Kemal Basmaci.
Just days before Friday’s launch of a serialised Netflix adaptation of the novel, hundreds of curious visitors have come to the museum, squeezing past one another on the narrow wooden stairs up to Basmaci’s attic room.
At the entrance, Umit, who runs the museum and declined to give his surname, said there had been about 500 visitors per day since Netflix began running trailers for the nine-part series, compared to 200 on a normal day. “And that will likely double after it comes out,” he predicted.
Set in the 1970s, the series features a young man from a wealthy Istanbul family who is devastated by the end of his relationship with Fusun, a distant cousin from a working-class background. The break-up sends him on an obsessive mission to collect anything that is hers.
Hence the wall of cigarette butts mounted on pins, each painstakingly labelled by circumstance, collected over an eight-year period starting from 1976. There are hundreds more items on display, from bits of jewellery to items of clothing, photos, cinema tickets and bottles of Meltem soda, which was popular in the 1970s — a huge collection of mundane mementoes passionately collected to fill the void left by Fusun’s absence. They are laid out in 83 display cases, the same number of chapters in the book.
Nobel literature prize-winner Pamuk, who opened the museum in 2012, four years after the novel was published, has admitted to being a similarly compulsive collector.
The novel emerged when he began writing about the objects he had saved, everything from family keepsakes to trinkets picked up at the bazaars, which gradually brought his characters to life. The museum showcases objects that make up the story, but the story also developed as he acquired new objects, the museum website says.
And the whole novel opens a unique window onto a decade of Istanbul history. Songul Tekin, 28, a visitor who loved the book, said she is convinced some of it really happened and came to the museum to “see it in real life”. “It’s told in real depth. There has to be some truth in it because otherwise you would never have so many objects and so much detail,” she said. She arrived with a friend and her copy of the novel — a gesture which lets visitors enter for free, thanks to a ticket on page 485 of the Turkish version of the book.
Also visiting was Aydin Deniz Yuce, a psychologist in his 30s who is a huge fan of Pamuk’s works. Although “The Museum of Innocence” was not his “favourite”, he said he was really keen to see the Netflix series and is convinced the “handsomeness” of the main actor, Selahattin Pasali, will be perfect for creating a credible Kemal.
With the novel translated into more than 60 languages, the museum has drawn international interest.
Visitors from China, Hungary, Italy, Japan and Russia turned up over the space of a few hours, an AFP correspondent said.
Poring over the display cabinets, Zeng Hu and Zeng Lin An, sisters from Hubei province in central China, said they were now intrigued to read the book and watch the series, although Netflix is not available in China.
Speaking to AFP at the screening late on Thursday, Pamuk said he was happy with the adaptation by Istanbul-based production company Ay Yapim after a disastrous first attempt several years ago.
“Since I was so dissatisfied and unhappy with my first try with Hollywood, I decided I wouldn’t allow anyone to make a film of any of my books without seeing the complete script first,” he said.
That meant working closely with a scriptwriter for 18 months before any money changed hands, which gave him “tight control” over the script.
“Once every two months, we would meet, like students doing homework. I would go over the scriptwriter’s texts, criticise it, improve it, suggest other things,” Pamuk said.
“It worked magically.”
Hugely popular, Turkish television dramas and series, known as “dizi”, are now available in 170 countries.
Global demand for them rose by 184 percent between 2020 and 2023, figures from Parrot Analytics show. In 2024, Turkey was the world’s third-largest exporter of television series, after the United States and the UK. Directed by Zeynep Günay, “Museum of Innocence” is written by Ertan Kurtulan and produced by Turkish TV Powerhouse Ay Yapım known for International Emmy-winning series “Endless Love,” and also “Fatmagul,” “Ezel” and “Forbidden Love,” among other global hit series.
Agence France-Presse