Dubai Fashion Week weaves trends, threads styles, interlaces couturiers
- 02 Feb 2025
Muhammad Yusuf, Features Writer
The opening night of Dubai Fashion Week’s (DFW, Feb. 1 – 6) Autumn/Winter 2025 edition was launched with a presentation by Zeena Zaki, Iraqi haute couture fashion designer, who launched her first fashion atelier in Dubai in 2003. The diverse line-up also included an ode to Paris by MANEL, a tribute to Batik craftsmanship by TOTON and a nod to Moscow and the Silk Road by Angelo Estera. From flowing gowns to structured silhouettes, Zaki presented a variety of eye-catching outfits in vibrant colours, each piece making a dramatic statement communicating grace, confidence, and refined beauty. Her artistry reaffirmed the designer as a key figure in MENA’s dynamic fashion scene, setting an exceptional standard for Dubai’s fashion programme.
Toton Januar’s TOTON 2025 collection, presented by Makeover Indonesia, was a reflection of the designer’s response to global current affairs and challenges. In a quest to find relevance in a complex world, Toton sought purpose in a transformative collaboration with Batik artisans from Tuban and Cirebon, Indonesia, whose resilience in preserving ancient craftsmanship inspired the designer to create once more. The collection unveiled at DFW embraced traditional Batik artistry with upcycled fabrics and innovative use of materials such as paper clay, to create a collection that nodded to fashion’s ability to foster connection and transparent conversations about our place in the world.
MANEL made a debut at DFW with the ‘Paris Day to Night’ collection, a tribute to Parisian roots and Dubai’s vibrant fashion scene. The collection combined elegant tailoring, luxurious fabrics and versatile designs that transitioned effortlessly from day to night. The colour palette drew inspiration from Parisian winters, blending earthy tones with opulent hues. Textured velvet, jacquard, Chantilly lace, and satin created a refined, understated opulence, with each piece embodying MANEL’s chic style.
Angelo Estera’s collection was inspired by his transformative journey to Moscow and his engagement with the historic Silk Road. Renowned for his passion for history and culture, the Filipino designer fused traditional Russian elements with Eastern influences, to honour the ancient trade routes connecting the East and West. The collection featured a rich colour palette of red, black, and gold, representing luck, mystery, and cultural prosperity. The show’s highlight was a breath taking gown that embodied the essence of this historical fusion, blending intricate patterns with luxurious silk, to create a striking work of art.
Sunday (Feb. 2) line-up included an inspiring collaboration by NIF Global and the London School of Fashion; Paolo Sebastian making a grand debut as the first Australian designer to showcase at DFW; La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) presenting DFW Member Weinsanto, and Lebanon’s Antoine Kareh taking the stage, before the UAE’s Velvety Couture closed the curtains on day two. The global mix of designers continues throughout the week. The line-up galaxy includes a multi-designer show by Etoile La Boutique; DFW members BLSSD, Dima Ayad, Lama Jouni, Mrs Keepa and Michael Cinco; Tara Babylon; Morocco’s Molato; Viva Vox; Choice; Riva, Saijamin; and a multi-designer cast from That Concept Store.
Istanbul-based Les Benjamins will join the ranks as DFW’s inaugural Correspondent Member before esteemed Indian haute couture designer Manish Malhotra closes the shows with a grand finale on February 6. The week also features a global buyers’ presentation (Feb. 3 – 5), with distinguished buyers from the UK, Italy, USA, Germany, India, and beyond, in attendance. The exclusive presentation provides an intimate setting for industry professionals and emerging talents to connect and collaborate, supporting talent discovery and networking. Taking place at d3 and by appointment only, it presents designers with an opportunity to showcase their collections to a select group of buyers.
Alongside the runway designers, fashion talent featured in the buyers’ programme includes Amer (Lebanon), Amina Galal (Egypt), Bil Arabi (UAE), Born Out Italy (UAE/Italy), Elise (Kuwait/Paris), Emergency Room (Lebanon), Ilyes Ouali (London), Joanna Laura (Lebanon), Late for Work (Morocco), and Yassmin Saleh (UAE/Lebanon). DFW extends its immersive fashion experience beyond the runway, with brands organising private dinners for media and industry leaders. Highlights includes a buyers’ lunch hosted by d3, backstage digital activations by Threads featuring exclusive designer interviews and additional engaging content.
Furthermore, the schedule will be marked by an exclusive Luisa Via Roma dinner, private events with Etoile Boutique and Dima Ayad, a launch dinner for the Mirina Rinaldi x Georges Chakra collection supported by the Arab Fashion Council, and, on the last day, the region’s first-ever Fashion Futures Dubai hosted by Vogue Business in strategic partnership with d3. DFW has strategic partnerships with leading global brands including Visa, as the official technology partner; Spotify, as official audio streaming partner; Instagram, as strategic streaming media partner; Balmain Hair Couture, as the official hair partner; Dyson, as the hair technology partner; Kiko Milano, as the official make-up partner; ME by Meliá Dubai, as the official hospitality partner; Bisou Dubai, as the lounge partner; and Electra and Magnum, as the production and audio-visual partners, respectively. Additional support comes from Fiji Water as the hydration partner.
Dubai Design District (d3), a member of TECOM Group PJSC, and home of DFW, is a global creative ecosystem dedicated to design, fashion, architecture and art. The Dubai headquartered Arab Fashion Council is the world’s largest non-profit fashion council and an INGO (International Non-Governmental Organisation) for the Arab world, representing the 22 members of the Arab League with the vision to build a creative economy by promoting regional designers globally.