Covid-19 forces a rethink in the fashion industry

Gulf Today Report 

The pandemic has torn a multibillion-dollar bite out of the fabric of Europe's fashion industry, stopped runway shows and forced brands to show their designs digitally instead.

As the world gradually gears for some semblance of normality by the end of the year, the industry is asking what fashion would look like moving forward.

There are various answers, some think it will be a new ear for the Fashion Week format. Others think Asia will have a huge influence and many see brand tilting towards sustainable formats.

According to Gildas Minvielle, an economist at the Institut Francais de la Mode in Paris, "the impact of the pandemic will be unquestionably to increase the importance and influence of Asia on fashion.”

Asian buyers are still considered a largely untapped market, yet their wealth has recently tipped over that of Westerners. China, in particular, was already considered the worldwide engine of growth in the luxury industry before the pandemic. Its quicker containment of the virus will leave it in an even stronger position.

Another thing that the pandemic has pushed is the decision to forfeit the pace of runway calendar shows.

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Since the advent of social media, brands have become much less reliant on traditional advertising outlets such as fashion magazines. Now, they create their own online channels, circumventing the glossies, to get their designs out.

For smaller brands, breaking away from expensive runway shows that bring in little return is a dream come true.

The virus saw many brands, including Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta of French luxury giant Kering, tearing up the traditional calendar to show their new collections when it suits them - both creatively and financially. Saint Laurent started the trend last year, drawing headlines for quitting Paris Fashion Week to "take control of its pace.”

However, critics, buyers and consumers have argued on the importance of a physical runway, adding that nothing can replace the experience.

"Brands have been deciding more and more when their optimal time to show is... They want to control their business more and that is their right,” Pascal Morand, Paris fashion federation Executive President.

"But this is not the end to Fashion Week. No matter what people say they are all awaiting a return to the runway and to come back to the physical experience.”

Stella McCartney said that across the industry now there is a sense that brands must embrace sustainability "in order to survive,” especially to attract the young, more environmentally conscious consumer.

One way to start thinking of the environment is by reducing waste collections. In the past, luxury giants have faced criticism for burning unused or unsold luxury goods.

One example of such eco-thought is the reduction of waste in collections. Luxury giants have been criticized in the past for burning unused or unsold luxury goods.

"I don’t think we will throw away where we are today and I don’t think we’ll dismiss where we were yesterday," added McCartney.