81 Designs and Studio Lél join in social purpose at Abu Dhabi Art

Muhammad Yusuf, Features Writer

SHARJAH: UAE-based social enterprise 81 Designs is launching its collaboration with Pakistan-based artist collective Studio Lél at the 16th edition of Abu Dhabi Art fair (Nov. 20-24). Interconnected – The Beacon of Light Collection features two sculptures resembling giant misbahs — the string of beads that is used in Islamic prayer, something that also holds cultural and social significance. Created by combining traditional techniques and patterns from the UAE, Palestine, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Italy, the collection can be seen as serving as a cultural bridge between European, Middle Eastern and South Asian crafts, and also aiming to celebrate the rich heritage and masterful artisans of these regions. It is the first time 81 Designs is working with a South Asian artist organisation.

At more than 13.5 feet (411 cms) long, the two sculptures feature 33 large beads each, some of which are decorated with Emirati khoos patterns (representing woven palm leaves) and traditional Palestinian tatreez embroidery patterns (including representations of palm trees and olive branches). Both palms and olive branches are symbols of peace. The high quality materials used to make the works were sourced from Pakistan. The first piece, titled “Nakhl” (Palm Tree), has been created using carved wooden spheres decorated by using a bead art technique.

Thousands of beads were hand-carved, using coloured stone and driven into the wood, using copper nails. The natural grain of the wooden spheres became the defining artistic element and was partly overlaid with beads and partly left exposed to tell its story. The second piece, “Zeitoun” (Olive), is made of brass spheres decorated using a technique inspired by pietra dura (known as parchin kari in South Asia), a highly skilled art form of inlaying polished precious and semi-precious stones.

Green serpentine rock has been chosen for this misbah and each piece was fitted into the brass using repoussage (a metalworking technique where beating the metal creates a design in low relief). In both works, the large, sculptural beads are threaded together with handmade and organically dyed rope. The intricate pieces took 14 highly skilled artisans four and half months to create. The works are presented as part of Abu Dhabi Art’s Community Partners programme, an initiative of the Department of Culture & Tourism Abu Dhabi.

Arranging the beads.

81 Designs is a social enterprise which began as a platform for the refugee, the displaced, and low-income female artisans specialising in tatreez, to find paid work on projects led by an artist from the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region. It has since expanded to support those working in other heritage crafts such as carpentry, metalwork and pottery, and also with artists from other regions who share the enterprise’s passion for reviving traditions and supporting communities.

Studio Lél was founded by artist Farhana Asad and is now led by her daughter Meherunnisa Asad. 81 Designs, which was co-founded by mother and daughter Nesrine El Tibi Maalouf and Nadine Maalouf, says it is proud to partner with a similar women-led organisations which exemplify the ways that craft, tradition and legacy is passed down through generations of family. Nadine Maalouf says that “these intricately crafted works tell many stories by incorporating elements and symbols found in traditional craft. Each piece serves as a cultural bridge, connecting the rich histories and traditions of both regions. They illuminate the creative cultural exchange between the Middle East and South Asia, showcasing how these interwoven communities have influenced and inspired one another over time.”

Meherunnisa Asad, artist, designer and Artistic Director of Studio Lél, says: “When Nadine invited me to imagine two giant sculptures resembling misbahs under the theme of inter-connectedness, I saw an excellent opportunity for a rediscovery and celebration of the ancient technique of pietra dura (stone marquetry). This 16th century Florentine art, which travelled across Europe and the Middle East to South Asia, has been mastered at Studio Lél to create contemporary art works that resonate across cultures and also push the envelope of fine craftsmanship and innovation. Furthermore, I am pleased to announce that with these works, for the first time, we have gone beyond our home base in Peshawar and collaborated with artisan workshops reviving indigenous crafts in other parts of Pakistan.”

81 Designs was officially launched at the 11th edition of Art Dubai in 2017. It empowers women artisans through design and art, focusing on building their skills and confidence. In collaboration with artists from the MENA region, it specialises in tatreez, carpentry, leatherwork, stonework, metalwork, painting, pottery, sculpture and weaving, as a means of empowering dispossessed women. Studio Lél is a renowned atelier based in Peshawar, Pakistan, founded in the early 1990s by Farhana Asad. Now under the artistic direction of Farhana’s daughter Meherunnisa Asad, it is known for its innovative work with traditional stonework, merging pietra dura with other ancient techniques such as cloisonné, scagliola, verré eglomisé and lapidary, to create contemporary artworks.

Studio Lél employs a team of skilled artisans from the surrounding area, working hard to preserve, reinterpret and evolve the ancient art of pietra dura in Pakistan.

They draw upon a wide range of inspiration, from Mughal miniatures to Islamic architecture. The studio collaborates with local and displaced Afghan artisans as part of its mission to provide a platform for storytelling and bringing economic benefits to places marked by conflict and displacement. Studio Lél has exhibited at major biennales, art and design shows and has been featured in leading publications.