Fendi caps couture with futurism-tinged ode to Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week
Models present creations by Fendi during the Women's Haute-Couture Spring/Summer 2024. AP
As Paris Couture Week drew to a close, Fendi offered a mesmerizing blend of minimalist futurism and homage to the legendary Karl Lagerfeld.
Celebrities like Zendaya and Reese Witherspoon were on hand to witness artistic director Kim Jones deliver a memorable futurist collection - with frothing, organic fringing - that not only revered the past but also embraced a forward-thinking ethos.
Here are some highlights of Thursday's fall couture displays:
"I was thinking about Karl Lagerfeld’s futurism,” Jones said, setting the tone for a collection where lightness, structure, and emotion intertwined seamlessly.
Yet, eschewing the indulgence of Lagerfeld’s era with his exotic furs and feathers, which are rapidly going out of fashion, Jones instead focused on the human form. It made for a minimalist and thoughtful display that ensured that each garment accentuated rather than overshadowed the wearer.
A new box-like silhouette opened the spectacle, with precise geometric patterns in silk gazars. Gowns with severe, minimalist hemlines were adorned with intricate beading, a sophisticated evolution from the brand’s fur-heavy past. A feather-like, all-over fringe appeared as a new kind of pelt - likely to curry favor with a more ethically-minded couture consumer. Jones’s vision of Fendi’s future, he seemed to be saying, is rooted in delicate humanism - not animal pelts.
The craftsmanship of Fendi’s ateliers shone through in every piece, showcasing a mastery of embroidery, tailoring, and fabric manipulation. The integration of crystal beading in tulle sleeves that seamlessly merged in a trompe l’oeil with clutch bags. It was the collection’s zenith - and a feat of fashion genius.
The creations, while echoing the grandeur of couture, were decidedly contemporary in their execution. Jones was respecting the Rome-based house’s codes while boldly stepping into a less opulent, more refined future.
In the fast-paced digital age, the fashion industry’s extravagant show invitations seem defiantly anachronistic.
Associated Press
